73 – The Good Soldier

This dog walks trail, situated 1h30 from Prague, circles and passes through Lipnice nad Sázavou where Jaroslav Hašek wrote his most famous work The Fate of the Good Soldier Švejk during the World War. Hašek died and was buried here, when he was just 39 years old, before finishing the novel.


Distance: 7 Km Difficulty: easy – moderate

Description: Park at the starting point and follow green trail markers to the quarry. Return to the main path then continue following green markers to the pond with the sculpture of the peeping eyes, Zlatý voči.

Then follow the same trail over the fields and into the town of Lipnice nad Sázavou. Circle the ruins of the old castle, zřícenina Bilá věž. You will descend into the town with a beautiful view of the castle and the cemetery wall to your left, where Hašek is buried.

You will pass Penzion a hostinec U České koruny and see a wooden sculpture of Švejk the Good Soldier. This is a good place to stop for lunch. If you are looking for a dog-friendly place to spend the night, they also run a big guest house next door, at the Galerie, where dogs are accepted.

Then continue up towards the castle. Climb the steps opposite the cafe and you can access a wonderful viewpoint. Then continue following the map until you enter the forest once more. Make your way to straight on to the pond with the sculpture of the mouth, Ústa pravdy. You can contemplate the beauty of the surroundings from a pretty bench, above the pond.

Finally, make your way to the pond with the eavesdropping ear sculpture, Bretschneiderovo ucho. Bretschneider was the undercover policeman whose job it was to snoop and eavesdrop, in Jaroslav Hašek’s novel. The sculptor Radomír Dvořák was responsible for the sculptures.

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I am sharing the circuit which we enjoyed, in the hope that you and your dog(s) will too:


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